Anti-aging skincare in pregnancy: which ingredients to use, which to avoid, and safe, effective alternatives to retinoids.
Navigating pregnancy-safe skincare can be complicated, but as a medical doctor with a focus on cosmetic ingredient safety, I’ve simplified the search for you. Visit my Skincare During Pregnancy: Begin Here guide for a full index of ingredient safety reviews, pregnancy and IVF-safe recommendations, and doctor-vetted product guides.
Today, we focus on anti-aging skincare ingredients during pregnancy that are effective for you and also safe for your baby. The terms “pregnancy” and “anti-aging” might sound mutually incompatible to some, but as someone who carried what is medically termed a “geriatric pregnancy,” it is a lived experience that merits discussion.
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What to Avoid
Retinoids and pregnancy
Topical retinoids, as many of us know, are among the best anti-aging compounds and the active ingredient in many anti-aging creams on the market.
However, retinoids cannot be a part of your anti-aging skincare during pregnancy. They are contraindicated due to reports of fetal malformation and should be stopped at least a month before planning a pregnancy.
That said, this study deduced that the use of topical retinoids has not been found to cause a significant increase in the rates of fetal malformation, but, to quote the same study, “the statistical power is not adequate to justify the use of topical retinoids during pregnancy.” However, this study gives hope to women who inadvertently used topical retinoids during their pregnancy.
We have effective, safe substitutes that can be used while pregnant, negating the need for retinoids in this special life stage.
For more information: Is it Safe to Use Retinol or Vitamin A Creams During Pregnancy?
Proceed with Caution
Bakuchiol: a retinoid alternative
There is no blanket “yes” or “no” about the safety of using bakuchiol during pregnancy. It is a newer chemical about which we do not have enough information.
Due to being a functional analog of retinoids (which are contraindicated in pregnancy), caution is advised.
Personally, I would not use it if I were pregnant.
If you are interested in more information, I have a post on the safety profile of bakuchiol during pregnancy and lactation that I will link here:
Safety Profile of Bakuchiol During Pregnancy and Lactation
The Good News
Pregnancy-safe anti-aging skincare ingredients
The good news is that most cosmetic ingredients are pregnancy-safe, and many have anti-aging benefits. These are:
Moisturizers (specifically pregnancy-safe moisturizers)
Sunscreen
Alpha hydroxy acid, low dose
Hyaluronic acid
Niacinamide
Peptides
Vitamin C
I have moisturizers and sunscreens on top, as these are commonly underestimated but essential.
These are also the minimum everyone should do in their basic skincare routine.
The Foundation
Moisturizers and sunscreens
These two are so crucial that the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) recommends that all adults use a moisturizer and sunscreen every day, two important anti-aging products that help protect the skin from UV rays and keep it smooth and supple.
How do moisturizers slow down aging?
Moisturizers repair the skin barrier and restore skin integrity, prevent water loss, and replace and restore skin lipids, resulting in soft, smooth skin and a reduction in fine lines.
Just be sure to read the ingredient list to ensure your moisturizer does not contain any ingredients that are not safe to use while pregnant.
I have entire posts dedicated to pregnancy-safe moisturizers for many skin types that I will link here:
How do sunscreens slow down aging?
UV rays from the sun break down collagen and elastin in the skin, the proteins that maintain its firmness and elasticity. Using sunscreens and physical protection, such as hats, reduces the development of wrinkles and skin sagging.
They also prevent age spots or sun spots from developing and help keep an even skin tone.
There are two types of sunscreens:
Physical or mineral-based (titanium dioxide and zinc oxide)
Chemical-based (oxybenzone, avobenzone, octinoxate, octisalate, octocrylene, and homosalate, in the USA)
Physical or mineral-based sunscreens are safe to use during pregnancy. I have a previous post on this that I will link here:
Pregnancy and Lactation Safe Sunscreens for Melasma and Hyperpigmentation
The best part of using sunscreens? They are also effective in the prevention and treatment of melasma, the pesky and hard-to-get-rid-of hyperpigmentation that develops during pregnancy and often persists once the baby is born. And do not forget to use physical sun protection measures like hats to boost your sun protection.
Safe and Effective
Hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is a pregnancy-safe, water-loving molecule that retains moisture. It is naturally present in our skin, and levels decrease with age, a process that is intensified by factors such as smoking and pollution.
Hyaluronic acid in your skincare is a safe and effective way to moisturize your skin, and comes with the added benefit of anti-aging properties.
Here are some recommendations for pregnancy-safe hyaluronic acid products:
Pregnancy and Lactation Safe Hyaluronic Acid Serums and Creams
Safe and Effective
Niacinamide
Topical vitamin B3, or niacinamide, is pregnancy-safe and comes with multiple anti-aging benefits:
Improvement in fine lines and wrinkles by increasing collagen production.
Reduction in the appearance of pigmented sun spots through its action on the pigment-producing cells of the skin.
Reduction of pore size and improvement in overall skin texture.
It enhances the skin barrier, a problem commonly seen as skin ages. An improved barrier translates into better moisture retention and protection against environmental insults, such as pollutants.
Available in various concentrations, 2-5% is a typical sweet spot. Higher percentages can result in skin irritation, especially if you are new to it or have sensitive, reactive skin.
Safe and Effective
Vitamin C
Vitamin C, a pregnancy and nursing-safe ingredient, has a dual benefit: it is not only an anti-aging ingredient but is also highly effective in the management of pregnancy-induced hyperpigmentation or melasma.
Vitamin C is an antioxidant and a free-radical scavenger that can help protect cells from stress. It is also an essential component in the skin’s production of collagen. It reduces wrinkles and improves skin firmness and elasticity by forming new collagen and maintaining existing stores, helping reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.
This is one of my favorite pregnancy-safe skincare ingredients, and I have written about it in detail previously. I will link those blogs here:
Safe in Low Doses
Alpha hydroxy acids
AHAs in low concentrations, typically less than 10%, are pregnancy-safe.
AHAs in skincare have multiple benefits:
Reduction in acne and hyperpigmentation, a commonly faced problem in pregnancy.
Topical AHAs stimulate fibroblast cells in the skin. These cells produce collagen, which helps reduce wrinkles and improve skin elasticity.
AHAs break down the ‘glue’ between old dead cells, helping them shed and improving the appearance of the skin; pigmentation is reduced and the skin looks even-toned.
They are hydrophilic (water-loving) and attract moisture to the skin, keeping it supple and hydrated.
AHAs in skincare are available in various forms, such as creams, serums, and face washes, and can be used safely as long as they are at a concentration of less than 10%.
AHAs are also commonly used as an ingredient in chemical peels, the safety and application of which during pregnancy I have written about:
Are Chemical Peels Safe During Pregnancy?
AHAs make the skin more sensitive to the sun’s rays and thus to sun damage. Should you incorporate AHAs into your skincare regimen, make sure you use a pregnancy-safe sunscreen and take other sun protection measures, such as wearing a hat.
Safe and Effective
Peptides
Peptides are the building blocks of collagen, which provides structure and strength to the skin.
As peptide production reduces with age, wrinkles appear and skin sags.
One of the most noteworthy effects of peptides is their capacity to stimulate collagen production.
They have also been found to reduce dark spots and skin inflammation and to improve skin barrier function.
The use of peptides can help reduce wrinkles, smooth the skin, strengthen the skin barrier, and calm redness and irritation.
This is a relatively newer ingredient, and it is important to note that we do not have any studies about its effects on pregnancy. The limited data available suggest that peptides are generally safe to use during pregnancy or while nursing.
Trivia
Your mom was right about making faces
Did your mom ever scare you away from making faces, grimacing, or scowling as a kid, saying that if you make that face, you will end up like that permanently?
Well, she was right!
Frequent squinting, frowning, or other such habitual facial expressions result in repeated contraction of those muscles and the overlying skin creases. As the skin ages, it loses collagen and elastin, and thus its elasticity, so it is unable to rebound or bounce back easily, making these creases prominent and, over time, deeper and permanent.
FAQ
Frequently asked questions
Which anti-aging ingredients are safe during pregnancy?
Pregnancy-safe anti-aging ingredients include moisturizers, sunscreen, low-dose alpha hydroxy acids, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, peptides, and vitamin C. Moisturizer and sunscreen come first, as they are the underestimated foundation of any anti-aging routine.
Is retinol safe during pregnancy?
No. Retinoids are contraindicated in pregnancy due to reports of fetal malformation and should be stopped at least a month before planning a pregnancy. Reassuringly for anyone who used them inadvertently, one study did not find a significant increase in fetal malformation rates, but the evidence is not strong enough to justify using topical retinoids during pregnancy.
Is bakuchiol a pregnancy-safe retinol alternative?
There is no blanket yes or no. Bakuchiol is a newer chemical we do not have enough information about, and because it is a functional analog of retinoids, caution is advised. Personally, I would not use it if I were pregnant.
What concentration of AHAs is safe during pregnancy?
AHAs at concentrations of less than 10% are pregnancy-safe, in forms like creams, serums, and face washes. Because AHAs make skin more sensitive to the sun, pair them with a pregnancy-safe sunscreen and physical protection like a hat.
Are peptides safe to use while pregnant?
Peptides are a relatively newer ingredient, and we do not have any studies about their effects on pregnancy. The limited data available suggest that peptides are generally safe to use during pregnancy or while nursing.
What strength of niacinamide should I use?
A concentration of 2-5% is the typical sweet spot. Higher percentages can result in skin irritation, especially if you are new to niacinamide or have sensitive, reactive skin.
Questions about anti-aging in pregnancy?
If you would like a quick, doctor-vetted review of an ingredient list, or help building a pregnancy-safe anti-aging routine without retinoids, I would love to help.
